Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 As itn says anything considered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 come on someones got to have one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thornybank Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Dreadnaught, auditorium, jumbo, bowlback, shallow, deep, cutaway - wotizzit ya wan'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Dreadnaught, auditorium, jumbo, bowlback, shallow, deep, cutaway - wotizzit ya wan'?cut away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 bump needing one urgently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thornybank Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 (edited) Make and model of your guitar will help identify shape and depth required for the case Edited February 10, 2013 by Thornybank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Fender t bucket 300 ce it fits in every case usually no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Its a full size drednought cutaway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw88 Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 i have a pod type case which i bought from celtic chords in stoney for £55 just before xmas. it is very solid and strong. paid £55 for it you can have it for £35. mint condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Im at work at the moment so ill see how much ive got. At the end of the day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 if your just looking for an acoustic to piss about on and not spend lots of money one, then you might want to pop into a sue rider charity shops. they sell chantry acoustics, normal and cutaway for rought £40, not bad for a brand new one with a set of spare strings. I had one and it lasted 4 years as a random chuckabout acoustic, it survived a download fest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 I just read ur looking for a casedisregard my post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Yeh I went in once looking at their es 335 stlye guitars long story short my mate farted it all went quite and we ran out laughing, back on topic yeh its fine im looking for something for open tunning my guitar strings keep snapping they cant cope from standard then changing to open c and that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw88 Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 were you interested in the pod case old bean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiamC Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Yeh I went in once looking at their es 335 stlye guitars long story short my mate farted it all went quite and we ran out laughing, back on topic yeh its fine im looking for something for open tunning my guitar strings keep snapping they cant cope from standard then changing to open c and thatI manage find are you winding them round the tuning pegs correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I manage find are you winding them round the tuning pegs correctlythe way i was tought was to have the whole facing down put the string through and hold and tighten it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meiklejohn Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 If you still need one I have a brand new one with tags 40 quid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 If you still need one I have a brand new one with tags 40 quidneed to sell some of my stuff, what kind of case it it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HateEvent Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 the way i was tought was to have the whole facing down put the string through and hold and tighten it When you put the string through the hole on the tuning peg, pull it a bit tighter so that there is some tension on it. Then - the bit a lot of people disregard - pull the string slack from the nut towards the frets (by 1 fret of distance on the high E, 3 frets on the low E and the relative distance for the rest (imagine a diagonal line between the 2 points I mentioned across the board and pull back accordingly). This allows for an appropriate amount of string to be wound round the post, ensuring greater tuning stability and a bit of flexibility when re-adjusting tunings. (obviously the lengths provided are a guide, not a science ) Also, the string that has already passed the post must go over the top of the string in tension from the nut to the post. This applies the correct stress to the post itself and avoids the string overlapping and pinching on itself (reducing it's life and increasing the likelihood of slippage). Finally, make sure to wind in the correct direction. If you are using a guitar with 6-a-side machine heads that are on the top (like a Strat/Tele) - wind anti-clockwise. For reversed headstocks (some Jacksons, ESPs etc.) you want to wind clockwise. When it comes to a Les Paul/335 etc. that has 3 pegs per side, the bass side pegs are wound anti-clockwise and the treble side clockwise. Doing this ensures that the string is pitched from the nut slot to the machine head at the correct angle, again giving the correct stress levels and enhancing the string life as it reduces the chance of it snapping at this point. However, regardless, there is something pretty important to keep in mind when continually altering tunings on a guitar. I posted about this factor on another forum when explaining that to accurately intonate a guitar you require new strings. It also applies to tuning amendments: Mass per unit length is the key here. When you've been playing a set of strings, or one string in particular (just whatever!), they are constantly under levels of tension which vary each time you fret them and they are continuously stretching when you retune, or when you bend a note etc. Also, if you often fret at the same position, it can create indentations on the string as it pushes against the fret wire.Whilst the strings are stretching in these multitudes of manners, the wear is uneven over the length of the string. Thus, the mass per unit lengthover the length of the string varies at many different points. Therefore, intonating the string at this time will be inaccurate over its length. Of course, the issues you may be having could come down to the gauge of strings being used, the age of the strings when this occurs, the level of oxidation on the strings themselves from having been played (if you have quite acidic sweat the level of string degradation will be much greater in a shorter period of time), sharp points at the machine head/nut/bridge causing the string to 'nip', stringing technique of course as above. There are many factors to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 When you put the string through the hole on the tuning peg, pull it a bit tighter so that there is some tension on it. Then - the bit a lot of people disregard - pull the string slack from the nut towards the frets (by 1 fret of distance on the high E, 3 frets on the low E and the relative distance for the rest (imagine a diagonal line between the 2 points I mentioned across the board and pull back accordingly). This allows for an appropriate amount of string to be wound round the post, ensuring greater tuning stability and a bit of flexibility when re-adjusting tunings. (obviously the lengths provided are a guide, not a science ) Also, the string that has already passed the post must go over the top of the string in tension from the nut to the post. This applies the correct stress to the post itself and avoids the string overlapping and pinching on itself (reducing it's life and increasing the likelihood of slippage). Finally, make sure to wind in the correct direction. If you are using a guitar with 6-a-side machine heads that are on the top (like a Strat/Tele) - wind anti-clockwise. For reversed headstocks (some Jacksons, ESPs etc.) you want to wind clockwise. When it comes to a Les Paul/335 etc. that has 3 pegs per side, the bass side pegs are wound anti-clockwise and the treble side clockwise. Doing this ensures that the string is pitched from the nut slot to the machine head at the correct angle, again giving the correct stress levels and enhancing the string life as it reduces the chance of it snapping at this point. However, regardless, there is something pretty important to keep in mind when continually altering tunings on a guitar. I posted about this factor on another forum when explaining that to accurately intonate a guitar you require new strings. It also applies to tuning amendments: Of course, the issues you may be having could come down to the gauge of strings being used, the age of the strings when this occurs, the level of oxidation on the strings themselves from having been played (if you have quite acidic sweat the level of string degradation will be much greater in a shorter period of time), sharp points at the machine head/nut/bridge causing the string to 'nip', stringing technique of course as above. There are many factors to consider. wow that was a load of reading, thanks helped a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HateEvent Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 I hope so. It is that easy to make changes to stringing technique which are hugely beneficial to your guitar & performances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Young Adolesent Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 i never realised how much a difference it made to the guitar how you restring it, should help a lot in the future :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meiklejohn Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Just a hardcase, fits my fender sorano or whatever its called. Brand new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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